In Memory of Vann Nath

From Arn Chorn-Pond.

“Some believe and some do not believe, but they can come and look at my paintings as evidence, and make up their own minds.” – Vann Nath

I knew Vann Nath quite well and visited him often – especially when he was really sick. With Nath, we lost one of the few witnesses to survive the most unspeakable torture center, Tuol Sleng prison ( known as S21).

Nath was talented, kind and friendly – a very decent human being. We at Cambodian Living Arts will miss him greatly and will forever cherish his friendship, support and his love of the arts and of Khmer culture.

We deeply appreciate the time in 2004 when Nath offered to guide a CLA group through Tuol Sleng prison. With courage and determination he showed us where he was captured and tortured in Toul Sleng prison. I could not believe he could go there with us, but he wanted to be our guide and interpreter.

We send our love and condolences to his family and we are deeply grateful for his life and for his willingness to sacrifice and to share his painful memories of his past so that we can learn to live with each other in harmony, peace and love… Thank you Master Vann Nath.

With love,
Arn

 

Posted September 22, 2011, in Art | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

NGO Mixer

Meet other professionals in your field; represent your organization.

Posted September 20, 2011, in Phnom Penh | Leave a comment

Old newspapers

Among the trove at Google are newspapers from the 1970s, including this edition of The Vancouver Sun from June 20, 1970, just about a month after Lon Nol had ousted Prince Norodom Sihanouk as Cambodia’s head of state.

By that time, Sihanouk had taken refuge in Peking. And the world was just coming to fully understand Cambodia’s “mercurial” leader.

When I would visit a Cambodian farm or factory, and it would be known that I had met Sihanouk, the workers would look at me with mouths agape and misty eyes and touch my hand and ask, what had he said, what was he like?

The diplomatic corps admired him for strictly opposite reasons. They knew him as a warm and extremely generous host, a man of sensitivity and genuine thoughtfulness. This was his social aspect. By day they wrestled with his true character … that tough, analytic and extremely knowledgeable master of the Asian political game. This was the Sihanouk that has until recently been largely ignored: playboy princes make much better newspaper copy.

There’s more at the link, including additional stories about Cambodia from the period.

 

Posted September 19, 2011, in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Bread is Ready, Coffee is Done, is done

The recent closing of Bread is Ready, Coffee is Done comes as a curious casualty in Phnom Penh’s ongoing coffee shop explosion. The Boeung Keng Kang eatery opened about six months ago on Street 57 in a neighborhood filled with high-end coffee houses.

The few times I had been there, the place seemed no better or worse than any of the other shops in the neighborhood, and it always seemed to have customers. So it was a surprise to see laborers hammering away at a gutted interior this afternoon, in perhaps the first indication that the BKK coffee-house market has reached a saturation point.

Posted September 19, 2011, in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Eternal Flame: The Zippo as Totem, Talisman and ‘Trench Art’

Built on regional artist Bradford Edwards’ 300-strong collection of lighters, “Vietnam Zippo” flirts with America’s obsession with the Vietnam War and revels in that conflict’s lingering anti-war sentiments.

Most people can instantly identify a Zippo. Even non-smokers recognize their significance, their signature click-clack closure and the gleaming, chrome-plated heft of what has become the ultimate macho lighting device.

The Zippo has become deeply entrenched in Americana. Like smoking, it became a badge of rebellion; a trademark of toughs and hard cases. As such, it’s always been nearly sacred to US soldiers.

Beginning with WWII the Zippo was practically standard issue for GIs. They could be purchased at any PX for less than $2. It was a utilitarian device and, for many, a prized possession.

“They’re a sturdy and very strong lighter that can work on many kinds of fuels. So they’re quite practical, and the military has always liked the Zippo ever since it was introduced in 1932,” says artist Bradford Edwards, whose collection of Vietnam conflict-era Zippos has become the subject of an impressive coffee table book, “Vietnam Zippos: American Soldiers’ Engravings and Stories 1965-1973.”

During a book launch at Monument Books in Phnom Penh, Edwards explained that since 1992 he has collected the intriguing, disturbing, and sometimes downright humorous, Zippos of former US soldiers in Vietnam. Combing through shops and markets in Ho Chi Minh City, he estimates he looked at more than 100,000 before settling on a permanent collection of more than 300.

What he discovered was that the Zippo played a very important, personal role for young soldiers in a decidedly strange land and dangerous situations. They reacted by inscribing, by way of local engravers and makeshift carving tools, their thoughts, fears and emotions on the clean “canvas” of the Zippo’s shell. Understandably, many were homesick, most were angry.

‘Trench Art’

“Vietnam Zippos became the ideal protest vehicle,” writes author Sherry Buchanan in the book’s introduction. “They escaped the brass’s attention more easily than Afros, Buddhist swastika medallions, Tibetan prayer beads and the ‘Make Love Not War’ slogans on helmets that incurred the disapproval of the powers that be.”

The result is what Edwards calls “trench art,” deeply personal inscriptions that shed light on the mental state of these young GIs, and additionally the mindset of any soldier in any life-threatening situation.

“The Zippo was a blank surface — a canvas — waiting to be embellished. A corollary would be the tattoo. It was natural that they started expressing themselves on the Zippo,” Edwards says. “It’s not just about the Vietnam conflict; it’s all conflicts. But in the Vietnam conflict it was this vehicle that best mirrored what the GIs were thinking. You really get the sense of a person struggling, often to stay alive or to see their loved ones again. Many want to see the conflict come to an end. There’s lots of yearning for peace and messages specifically expressing how much someone misses their wife, girlfriend even ones who’re missing their mom. They’re really touching and universal.”

“Vietnam Zippos” is a handsome book. Through vintage photos and striking graphic design it manages to aptly frame the iconic images of 1960s American culture. The Zippos are presented artfully, and the inscriptions themselves are priceless in their admixture of pop culture references, anti-war slogans and bawdy boasting. As Edwards puts it, they range from the “profound to the profane.”

A few of the classics:

Yea though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil for I am the evilest son of a bitch in the valley.

I’m not scared, just lonesome.

Ours is not to do or die, ours is to smoke and stay high.

You’ve never really lived until you’ve nearly died.

Some Coincidence

A self-professed “Army brat” originally from the US East Coast, but mostly from California, Edwards has spent much of the last 15 years in Southeast Asia, mostly bouncing between Hanoi and Phnom Penh. As the middle son of a Marine Corps colonel who served two tours of duty in Vietnam in 1966 and 1969, the 53-year-old Edwards says he had the Vietnam conflict in his life since “day one.”

Since 1997, Edwards has had four art exhibitions at the FCC Phnom Penh, including “Between Beauty and Blight” in June 2002, and his most recent exhibit, “Borrowed Memory,” in January 2006.

Earlier this decade, Edwards met Sam Bottoms — the actor who played the acid-tripping surfer dude Lance in Francis Ford Coppola’s “Apocalypse Now” — at a party in Southern California.

“To have gotten one of the few surfer Zippos in the war, and then to meet ‘Lance’ and then tie this pop culture circle: It’s the most amazing coincidence of my life thus far.”

Or is it? Each Zippo is stamped on the bottom with the word “Bradford,” the town where every lighter is made by the Zippo Manufacturing Company of Bradford, Pennsylvania.

This article was originally published in the November 2007 issue of The Wires.

 

Posted September 19, 2011, in Art, Photography, Vietnam | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Rugby World Cup LIVE on the big screen

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Posted September 14, 2011, in Sport | Tagged | 2 Comments

Discovering an island paradise

Up in the jungles of Kratie, on the lesser traveled side of the Mekong, a novel experiment in tourism is under way. Called the Mekong Discovery Trail, the plan promotes getting tourists off the well-trodden path, exposing them to the undiscovered awe of northern Cambodia, and delivering some of the promises of tourism to a swath of the country still waiting to cash in.

Awe is not mere hyperbole. The trail runs through the provinces of Kratie and Stung Treng, and it includes the “famous” Kampi dolphin pools, the flooded forests of Stung Treng and the breathtaking Khone falls.

Yet for all the region’s abundance of natural beauty, the project is not without some major hurdles.

Koh Trong has the trappings of an idyllic tropical island. But it’s nowhere near the sea. To get there, you must drive five hours north from the Cambodian capital, Phnom Penh, to the town of Kratie, along a potholed road scattered with oxen, bicycles, chickens and children. When you reach Kratie, find the concrete staircase leading to a makeshift boat dock.

Hold your breath as you walk the brittle plank to the old wooden ferry that will cross the Mekong River, here a swathe of murky brown water gliding towards the sea. Bring some patience: the ferry will leave only when it is full.

Safely on the other side, cross the beach and clamber onto the back of a motorbike taxi driven by a jovial middle-aged woman wearing pastel pyjamas. Your luggage can go on the front of the bike, or between you and the driver. Just hold on tight as she negotiates the “road” – a thin path of bamboo sticks suspended over the sinking sand.

And that’s just to get there. As might be expected, Koh Trong offers no running water — or electricity or hotels or restaurants or any other trappings of modern industrialized life. The only place to stay is with the locals. Amenities are sparse. Mosquito nets and public bathing are the norm.

Clearly, the Mekong Discovery Trail is not aimed at the average traveler. But if you’re adventurous, your own private Cambodia is there waiting for discovery.

 

Posted September 12, 2011, in Tourism, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Old-school travel

Pilloried by many a seasoned traveler, an old, well-thumbed guide book can jump-start more than a few great adventures. Just ask Brian Thacker.

He borrowed the original 1975 South-East Asia on a Shoestring from Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler and used it as his only guidebook.

Forget what’s trendy along the Banana Pancake Trail now, Thacker wanted to find out what was still left and who was still around – minus the bell-bottoms.

And what an adventure he had.

He broke bread with a gang of ravenous rats, swam with a goat-eating crocodile and got hopelessly lost while traipsing through Portuguese Timor, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Burma and Singapore.

In all, Thacker spent 12 unforgettable weeks uncovering Wheeler’s original Southeast Asia trail. He chronicles each step in Tell Them to Get Lost, published by Random House Australia.

 

Posted September 9, 2011, in Travel | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Vann Molyvann: An Architect for All Seasons

Vann Molyvann is not just Cambodia’s most revered architect, he is a national icon. His work includes Independence Monument, the Olympic Stadium, Chaktomuk Theater and many, if not most, of Phnom Penh’s landmarks.

It doesn’t take an architecture aficionado to appreciate the creations of architect-urbanist Vann Molyvann, many of which are on permanent, and prominent, display around the capital.

To the Western eye, trained on skyscrapers and shopping malls, the designs of Molyvann are a delightful departure. He’s known as the star of New Khmer Architecture, a period in the 1950s and 1960s that was at once experimental and practical, monumental and whimsical.

“Style is not just something you stick on the outside. Neo-Khmer architecture draws on real needs,” says historian and architect Helen Grant Ross. “There is something very human about it. It’s not at all like fascist monolithic architecture, and it is very Cambodian in the sense that it is very low key. It doesn’t use luxurious materials. It’s really quite modest.”

Continue reading

Posted September 9, 2011, in Art, Phnom Penh | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Abrupt end to Cambodia Daily mosquito net campaign

The Cambodia Daily’s program to distribute mosquito nets to needy families recently came to an unexpected end. In a half-page notice in today’s paper, Bernie Krisher, the newspaper’s publisher, offers some details on the campaign’s demise.

The immediate reason that prompted the decision to terminate the campaign was the refusal of the Embassy of Cambodia in Tokyo to continue placing our mosquito net charity boxes on its consular counter where tourists and travel agencies come to obtain visas and had been generously contributing to this program. The decision to return the charity boxes was made by Cambodia’s ambassador to Japan, Hor Monirath, the son of Foreign Minister Hor Namhong. His reason was that the mosquito net charity boxes competed with the charity boxes of the Cambodian Red Cross, which is headed by the wife of Prime Minister Hun Sen. An appeal to Prime Minister Hun Sen to reverse this decision received no response from him.

How unfortunate.

Posted September 7, 2011, in Uncategorized | Tagged | Leave a comment